A GRACEFUL CELEBRATION OF INDONESIA'S `PRIMITIVE ENTERTAINMENTS' AN EMPIRE OF THE EAST: TRAVELS IN INDONESIA BY NORMAN LEWIS, HENRY HOLT, $25, 237 PP. THE SECRET LIFE OF THE SEINE BY MORT ROSENBLUM, ADDISON WESLEY, $21, 287 PP. SEEING VIETNAM: ENCOUNTERS OF THE ROAD AND HEART BY SUSAN BROWNMILLER, HARPERCOLLINS, $22, 225 P. ALBATROSS: THE TRUE STORY OF A WOMAN'S SURVIVAL AT SEA BY DEBORAH SCALING KILEY AND MEG NOONAN, HOUGHTON MIFFLIN, $19.95, 210 PP. THE JAZZ AND BLUES LOVER'S GUIDE TO THE U.S. BY CHRISTIANE BIRD, ADDISON WESLEY, $15, 408 PP. - Silk, Steve (Hartford Courant)