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Including Wave Diffraction in XBeach: Model Extension and Validation

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Publicado en:Journal of Coastal Research vol. 36, no. 1 (Jan 2020), p. 116
Autor principal: Fang, KeZhao
Otros Autores: Wang, Hong, Sun, Jiawen, Zhang, Jiabo, Liu, Zhongbo
Publicado:
Allen Press Inc.
Materias:
Evolution
Wave action
Soil erosion
Sediment transport
Wave height
Physical tests
Beaches
Wave diffraction
Coasts
Computer simulation
Wave breaking
Propagation
Velocity
Shoreline protection
Experiments
Coastal inlets
Wave power
Ocean floor
Critical velocity
Coastal research
Environmental
Acceso en línea:Citation/Abstract
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Resumen:Fang, K.; Wang, H.; Sun, J.; Zhang, J., and Liu, Z., 2020. Including wave diffraction in XBeach: Model extension and validation. Journal of Coastal Research, 36(1), 116–127. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.An extended version of the XBeach model is presented in this paper to improve the accuracy of predicted wave and current fields and sandy beach evolution in scenarios in which wave diffraction takes effect. Following the approach successfully implemented in the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) spectral wave model, a diffraction parameter is introduced into the wave action balance equation in XBeach to take wave diffraction into account. An alternative wave breaking index and the formulation for the critical velocity are also tested in the extended model to achieve better model–data agreement. The extended model is validated by comparing the simulation results with those of physical tests for fixed and movable sea beds. The computed wave height, wave-induced current field, and beach evolution are found to be in satisfactory agreement with the measurements, and the numerical modeling capacity of the extended model to represent wave diffraction effect is thus demonstrated.
ISSN:0749-0208
1551-5036
DOI:10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-19-00015.1
Fuente:Science Database